By Simon Knappich, Pastry Chef, Diplomingenieur (graduate engineer) in Food Technology (University of Applied Sciences), Technical Consultant Key Accounts Confectionery Bakery, IREKS, Kulmbach, Germany
BERLINER: The perfect all-rounder
Ingredient selection
The quality of the raw materials, the ingredient proportions, and the respective process steps and parameters determine the outcome when baking deep-fried pastries.
Premixes
Baking mixes and premixes can serve as the foundation for consistent and reproducible baking results of the highest quality. The demanding production process requires specially selected raw materials. The primary ingredients used are high-gluten specialty flours with precisely defined qualities that ensure good dough stability, high fermentation tolerance, pronounced subsequent pan spring, the characteristic, stable white collar, and low fat absorption during deep-frying. Premixes also contain technologically effective ingredients to achieve maximum process reliability, good flavor, long-
lasting softness, and the desired crumb texture. In addition, they usually already contain the required amounts of sugar, fat, dry milk products, salt, and flavorings.
Eggs
Berliners are among the yeast-leavened pastries with the highest egg content. In addition to enhancing the quality of the pastry from the consumer’s perspective, the egg content plays a key technological role in the production process.
Whole eggs
As early as the dough-making stage, the lecithin contained in the egg exerts its emulsifying effect, improving the structure and texture of the dough. The doughs are smoother and more pliable, making them easy to process with equipment. Another function of whole eggs in manufacturing Berliners is to reduce fat absorption during the deep-frying process, which has a positive effect on the taste and
digestibility of the product. In addition, whole eggs play a key role in volume development and contribute to the formation of the subsequent pan spring as well as to the stabilization of the white collar.
Egg yolks
The deliberate addition of egg yolks improves the crumb structure and color and helps keep baked goods soft. Using only egg whites is not recommended. If the proportion of eggs is changed, the amount of water added must be adjusted accordingly to avoid creating doughs that are too soft and too difficult to process in a machine.
all pictures © IREKS
Fats
Based on qualitative, technological, or economic requirements, different kinds of fat can be chosen. Generally, the fat content in a baked Berliner contributes to:
+ A shorter, softer crumb structure
+ Delayed staling by prolonging softness and freshness
+ Enhancing aroma and flavor
The fat content in Berliner dough is typically 8–12%, based on the weight of milled grain products. However, increasing this content results in a lower volume and increased fat absorption during deep-frying.
Butter
Butter is used primarily for its aroma and flavor. Because butter has a lower melting point than baking margarine, Berliner dough made with butter should be kept slightly cooler throughout the entire process. If the pastries are marketed under the name ‘ButterBerliner’, only butter or milk fat products derived from butter may be used. In addition, the dough must be fried in clarified butter, since the deep-frying fat used must be listed as an ingredient in the ingredient list due to the corresponding amount of deep-frying fat absorbed.
Margarine
Due to the emulsifiers it contains and its solid fat content, margarine has excellent emulsifying properties. This results in more stable doughs that are less sensitive to temperature variations and have greater fermentation stability.
Vegetable oil
Neutral-tasting vegetable oils are also suitable, as they promote a soft, brief chewing sensation. When used, vegetable oils tend to result in softer doughs and promote
increased fat absorption during deep-frying. Therefore, the amount added should not exceed 10% – based on the weight of milled grain products.
Gluten stretch test of Berliner dough
Sugar (Sucrose)
In doughs for Berliners, the sugar content is typically 6–10%, based on the weight of milled grain products. Sugar contributes to the desired sweetness, enhances the pastry’s flavor, and increases the moisture content of the crumb. Sucrose and other types of sugar promote the pastry’s surface browning.
Salt
Salt is added in the standard amounts of 1.4–1.8%, based on the weight of the milled grain products. It helps both to stabilize the dough and to develop the desired flavor.
Yeast
The required amount of yeast depends on the specific fermentation method used and whether the dough has been frozen. In practice, the amount or dosage of yeast ranges from 4 to 7%, depending on the weight of the milled grain products.
Berliner dough pieces and baked Berliners with optimal shape
The perfect dough piece
Berliner doughs are characterized by their elastic and fluffy texture, which makes them easy to work with and well-suited for machine processing. These doughs require intensive kneading, as the formation of the gluten network is delayed by the fat and sugar contents.
Dough preparation
Doughs that have been kneaded for approximately 2 + 7 minutes in a spiral mixer exhibit plastic dough properties and a smooth, dry surface. Longer, intensive kneading results in increased subsequent pan spring. The Berliners expand more in width during deep-frying, resulting in a larger diameter. Due to individual operational conditions and processing methods, which can include an automatic divider or a dough-dividing and kneading machine, the amount of water added and the kneading time must be adjusted accordingly. To achieve the most stable dough possible and a target dough temperature of 24–26 °C, it is recommended to use cold water in combination with ice.
The dough temperature, in turn, depends on:
+ Batch size
+ Kneading system
+ Ingredient temperatures
+ Outside temperature (season)
If more than 50% of the liquid is replaced with ice, the mixing phase should be extended, as the ice does not initially contribute to dough formation. Dough that is too warm, or the addition of pre-fermented dough pieces, impairs the moldability of the dough pieces. A proven method for determining the optimal kneading time is the gluten stretch test at the start of production.
Shaping
Shaping is a critical step in the production process that determines the Berliner’s quality. The goal is to produce uniform dough pieces with a smooth surface, even tension, and a closed, flour-free seam. A cleanly formed seam is essential for the Berliner’s subsequent shape retention and ability to absorb deep-frying fat. Gently pressing down on the shaped dough pieces before the proofing phase ensures a flatter pastry shape and prevents them from becoming too round or spherical.
Types of proofing
Different proofing methods have become standard in nearly all bakeries.
Direct
The dough pieces are placed in the proofing chamber immediately after shaping and are allowed to slightly stiffen when they are three-quarters into the proofing process. To ensure the stability of the dough pieces, it is important to maintain a controlled proofing period of approximately 90 minutes at a proofing temperature of 27–32°C and 75–80% relative humidity.
Proofing interruption
The prepared dough pieces are placed in proofing interruption at -7 to -18°C as usual. After a storage period at -7°C, the dough pieces are slowly thawed over seven hours and brought to proofing. The temperature increase during the thawing and proofing phases must be managed in such a way as to prevent excessive condensation from forming on the surface of the dough pieces. Then, when the dough is ¾ proofed, allow the dough pieces to firm up.
When storing unproofed dough pieces in the freezer for several days or weeks, flash freezing is recommended. The frozen dough pieces should be sealed in an airtight container as soon as possible to prevent the surface from drying out.
Stiffening
An essential step before frying is the stiffening of the proofed dough pieces. This process partially prevents the frying fat from penetrating too deeply, thereby helping to reduce fat absorption. In addition, a light formation of skin improves its shape retention, particularly the formation of the characteristic white collar. It is important to note that the dough continues to proof during the skin formation.
Stiffening works best in a cool, dry place and can be accelerated by fans or some form of controlled airflow. However, excessive skin formation should be avoided. If cracks
appear during the fermentation test or when light pressure is applied to the surface, this indicates excessive drying, which significantly impairs volume expansion during the deep-frying process.
Deep-frying
Fats and oils have a much higher heat capacity than air and can therefore transfer heat to the food more quickly and evenly than in the traditional oven-baking process. The water present in the dough piece evaporates at the beginning of the deep-frying process and is gradually transported to the surface (mass transfer). Only when no more water evaporates from the surface does the temperature gradually rise from the outside in, resulting in the development of the characteristic fried aroma and flavor, as well as the golden-yellow crust.
Deep-frying fats
When selecting deep-frying fats and oils, the following characteristics must be considered, in addition to economic factors:
+ Long-lasting heat and oxidation stability
+ High smoke point of at least 210 °C
+ Low foaming
+ Neutral taste and odor
+ Handling and consistency
Deep-frying fats are edible fats and are therefore chemical mixtures of triglycerides composed of fatty acids and glycerin. When heated and exposed to oxygen, their structure changes, resulting in various degradation products. On the one hand, these are responsible for the pleasant fried flavor. On the other hand, they have a negative impact on the quality of the fat. In this context, saturated, long-chain fatty acids are significantly more stable than unsaturated fatty acids with multiple double bonds.
The deep-frying fat changes as it is subjected to increasingly high temperatures. Careful process control helps maintain the deep-frying fat in optimal condition for as long as possible. For example, regular filtration of the deep-frying fat reduces contamination and helps slow down the deterioration of the deep-frying fat by up to 20%. In addition, the ratio of product volume to deep-frying fat volume should not exceed 1:10. The result: an excessive drop in temperature and increased absorption of deep-frying fat.
Deep-frying fats qualities
Since some of the deep-frying fat is absorbed into the product during deep-frying and subsequently consumed, consistent quality must be ensured in daily use. In practice, sensory evaluation is the primary determinant. Used deep-
frying fats should be considered spoiled if they exhibit clear defects in odor or taste, or physical changes such as:
+ Stale, scratchy, rancid taste
+ Pungent and unpleasant odor
+ Excessive foaming
+ Increased smoke production at 175°C
+ Increased viscosity and formation of resinous deposits
To corroborate the sensory findings, chemical parameters are also taken into account during the analysis, as deepfrying fats undergo measurable changes over their usage, including:
+ Increase in free fatty acids
+ Increase in polar components (threshold* ≥ 24%)
+ Increase in acid value (threshold* ≥ 2.0 mg KOH/g)
+ Increase in polymeric triglycerides
Deep-frying parameters
The ideal deep-frying temperature for Berliners is approximately 170°C. The temperature should be carefully monitored at regular intervals. If in doubt, it is recommended to check the temperature using an external thermometer.
On the one hand, too high temperatures cause the surface to brown quickly, which shortens the baking time. This can negatively affect the stability of the collar. Temperatures that are too low, on the other hand, and the resulting longer baking times promote increased fat absorption in the pastry.
For a dough piece weighing 0.045 – 0.055 kg, the optimal baking time is approximately seven minutes, with the following timings:
1. Baking phase ———— 210 seconds, closed
2. Baking phase ———— 150 seconds, open
3. Baking phase ———— 50 seconds, open
4. Baking phase ———— 10 seconds, open
To achieve a pronounced subsequent pan spring, the first baking phase should be carried out with the lid closed. This keeps the surface of the dough piece pliable and elastic for longer, which promotes even volume expansion during deep-frying. As the dough matures, the lid can be opened slightly earlier to regulate excessive volume expansion and support the formation of a stable collar.
This article is based on a section from the “SIEDE-CHECK” brochure published by IREKS.